Business1 min read

Fashion and tradition: how John Smedley is innovating in a tough market

By · Via The Guardian Business · Published by Everything Blog

In short

British knitwear firm John Smedley is balancing historical methods with high-tech upgrades across its Lea Bridge site, the world's oldest continuously operating factory. With a secondary finishing facility in Armthorpe, the company's 230 manufacturing staff produce 4,500 garments every week for its own collections and luxury partners like Lanvin. Under Managing Director Jess McGuire-Dudley, the label is capitalizing on renewed consumer demand for sustainable domestic production, even as overall UK apparel employment has dropped to 15,000 workers. To secure long-term continuity, the firm offers two-year apprenticeships alongside worker perks such as refurbished on-site housing.

Key points

  • Modern technological investment and traditional techniques allow the historic brand to su…: Modern technological investment and traditional techniques allow the historic brand to survive severe domestic manufacturing declines.
  • Securing the future of specialized handcrafting depends on training apprentices before an…: Securing the future of specialized handcrafting depends on training apprentices before an aging artisan workforce reaches retirement.
  • Employee welfare measures such as refurbished housing and wellness perks serve as critica…: Employee welfare measures such as refurbished housing and wellness perks serve as critical tools for maintaining manufacturing talent.

Sources checked by our analysis pipeline: 1

Tina is wielding a large pair of scissors with authority, slicing with immense skill and precision.

With 38 years of experience, she is an important member of the 230-strong manufacturing team producing fine knitwear for the John Smedley brand. Using a chalk, a semi-circular guide and a sharp pair of scissors, she cuts necklines in the knitted garments ready for the final trim to be attached.

The brand’s site in the Peak District, Derbyshire, is the oldest continuously operating factory in the world, with a maze of buildings, one of which dates to 1784. Inside is a mix of hi-tech Japanese knitting technology, skilled artisans such as Tina, who finish garments by hand, and some machines which date back more than 60 years and have to be kept going with bespoke parts. Another smaller Smedley factory, in Armthorpe, South Yorkshire, also finishes the garments.

The company – which holds royal warrants from King Charles and Queen Camilla – has faced difficult times in the luxury market in recent years, but is surviving by mixing heritage with innovation: from launching new…

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